Fine warm weather was forecast for Billings and Gardiner and close to freezing over the pass, so we rugged up accordingly and shed layers as we went on our descent and trip into Gardiner which was all kinds of beautiful. The road surface was superb, the scenery unbelievable, snow and ice staggering and all kinds of wow no matter what direction we looked and then into Yellowstone and herds of magnificent bison. A feast for the senses. Will let the pictures tell a tiny part of the story.
Some interesting facts: Elevation above sea level.
Gardiner USA – 952.2m
Mount Kosciusko Australia –2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today –3,345m (over Beartooth Pass obviously)
Heading up the pass the road wound its way up and it was hard to focus on it with the view.
And more of it moving above the tree line (needless to say Norm was off the bike for these pics).
A shot of where we had come from to the Rock Creek Vista Point. We thought we must be near the top but there was a lot more roads and views to come.
And looking back across the valley to more snow-covered mountains.
Danny and Mal close to the top, gives a hint of the depth of snow.
Heading down there was a vista at every corner but few places to safely stop on a motorbike to take the photo and yes that is a frozen lake below. there were many.
The store past the summit where Beartooth Pass T shirts and other tourist traps are sold.
Heading down.
And some incredible infrastructure.
Snow melt in action. Incredible to see,
And more of the same. Where I am standing was a repaired hillside following incredible erosion. The water looked like it was boiling.
A snow plough. They do an awesome job…oh and Norms bike, what a surprise.
Our lunch spot at Cooke City. We took off lots of layers of clothing here and sat on the veranda in a balmy breeze. Was hard to get our heads around it.
And into Yellowstone National Park and there were bison everywhere, great herds which was awesome to see.
And again.
Last nights' accommodation:
Great Western Clocktower Inn Billings.
Lovely property with spacious comfortable rooms, staff offered vehicle washing service which was a first. Comfortable beds and room to spread out. Nice hot shower and parking on site. Breakfast across the driveway from reception which was delicious and handy to multiple dinner options.
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Well, what a day of visual delights. We had barely set out when we headed into the village of Belt for fuel given, we had a lot of ground to cover and not a lot of services available, and that was a treat, then we headed back out to the highway and just loved the ride through rolling ranchland surrounded by snowcapped mountains. Wow!
We lunched at Wilsall; home of a great Rodeo then headed for Billings. We were surrounded by 180 degrees of snow-capped mountains!!! Really too much to take in. Tomorrow, we head off to the Beartooth Pass via Red Lodge, a bucket list for Norm.
Today on our travels we saw cattle, horses, sheep, deer, cougar, bison, mother and baby ducks and prairie dogs. We also enjoyed crossing many awesome rivers including the Yellowstone which was running from bank to bank where it hadn't broken through further. Wonder what tomorrow will bring.
Some interesting facts: Elevation above sea level.
Billings USA – 952.2m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today – 2,266m (yes that is higher than the summit of Mount Kosciusko).
Great Falls Hydro Station on the Missouri River. An impressive body of water. So enjoyed a ride through very picturesque residential areas to get here.
Main street of Belt where we fueled up. All kinds of cute and very friendly locals.
An outlook over limestone / sandstone? cliffs and sluice work whatever that means. Just know it looked awesome and I took a photo here last trip also.
And a photo of me taking a photo as apparently, we must.
Lovely historic mural in Wilsall.
And a shot of the same street today minus the buildings on the LHS which are no longer there apart from the silo.
The Bank Vault Bar / Restaurant at Wilsall where we had lunch. All kinds of quirky, the lounge wall was surrounded by brand marks of local ranches who brought them to the opening of the restaurant. They are also burnt into the bar which has been sanded back and lacquered over. What a great way to have some local ownership! We were the only ones apart from one couple when we came in and when we left the place was buzzing. So good to see!
And a shot inside the lounge before the crowd arrived.
Last nights' accommodation:
The Gibson Hotel Great Falls.
A beautifully refurbished award-winning enlarged and refurbished hotel with generous spaces, comfortable bed, ample power points and charging options, roomy bathroom and a walk-in shower, all round the best we have had since leaving home. Parking included as well as a lovely breakfast either at a local restaurant or ordered at the hotel and delivered to your room. Gym on site and a guest lounge as well as all day coffee, tea, cider, cookies and muffins. Complimentary guest laundry also. However, you look at it they are all round very thoughtful, and guest focused.
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The day dawned sunny and windy and stayed that way, the only thing to vary was the intensity of the wind which was good when it was a tail wind and ferocious and unpredictable when it was a cross or head wind. We had planned a nice mountain ride from Havre through to Big Sandy and completed a good part of it until we came across an unsealed track with no phone service so erred on the side of caution and returned to Havre, had lunch and then fought with the wind until we got into Great Falls. I was exhausted.
What we did enjoy in the morning, as we had coming in for many kilometers yesterday was travelling alongside the perfectly level railroad and all the many and varied trains we saw. This afternoon we passed almost 32kms of empty flatbed container carriages parked up on a track in various sections of 1 -1.5kms in length with maybe 100m between each group, it was the only thing which gave a brief reprieve from the wind. We also saw deer and bison on our trip as well as thousands of acres of grain fields and silos.
Thinking about the railway, it has me beat how the Victorian Government has spent so many millions of dollars on our Gippsland trainline for as long as I’ve been alive (a considerable time) and it still resembles a theme park ride more than a train trip, on the few occasions there is actually a train on the tracks instead of a bus on the road …. Wow I really am tired … and a bit grumpy.
Some interesting facts: Elevation above sea level.
Cut Bank USA –1,015m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Forgot to put this one in yesterday. This is Chief Mountain on our way from the USA Canada border which is officially on Chief Mountain. It is quite spectacular and sits at an elevation of 2,768m at its summit.
The train line outside our motel window was busy throughout the night and it intrigued us to see how it wound down to the bridge.
And this was when the sun was setting before the strong wind wound up to ferocious most of the night and into today.
Near the spot we had to turn around on our trip through the mountains today. Such a shame, it looked great, the road had a great surface, there was near enough to no traffic, and we were comparatively protected from the wind.
Last nights' accommodation:
Super 8 by Wyndham Cut Bank.
Budget accommodation with parking included and a budget cold breakfast. Nearby restaurants available for dinner. Comfortable bed, hot shower and we were warm and dry. No pic.
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Back from Canada into the USA today. The forecast today was terrible with heavy rain at Waterton Park through nearly all the way to Cut Bank, instead we left with dry roads and didn’t get any rain until we were heading up the Highway to the Sun in the Glacier National Park. We came here 11 years ago, in the summer. And today the road was only open for 25kms each end and the 25kms over the summit was still closed with snow which is a shame because it is spectacular, but we went anyway and were blown away with it. We were also sorry to see a lot of the forest had been subjected to wildfires in 2018 – 2019 as had the area around Waterton Park, but that also meant we had better views of the Lakes and Mountains than we otherwise would have had, so swings and roundabouts I guess.
Some interesting facts: Elevation above sea level.
Cut Bank USA –1,150m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today – 1,840m
The entry to the Glacier National Park.
I remember freaking out a bit at the bear sign when we last visited, now a Visitor Centre has popped up as well.
The tiny spot you can see in the lake between both the bikes is called Goose Island (I don’t know why). Never thought a goose would come between us two silly old geese…..
Stopped for a pic and wondered what the flowing water sound was.
I had thought this photo was in the same spot as a tourist took a shot of us both on the last trip but when I searched it, I discovered it was much higher up the highway than we could go to today. So many mountains!
Froom the Jackson Glacier Overlook where the road was closed with snow. We took photos as we departed as the pull off areas were on our side of the road then.
And almost back at the park gate and the weather begins to clear.
The railway bridge as we came into town complete with train.
The railway bridge without the train and with a bike instead.
Cut Bank Creek which literally cut through the floor of a vast wheat producing plain.
I saw this sign on the way into Cut Bank and loved it so went back and took the pic. Says it all. Domestic Violence is a people problem, nothing else and is unacceptable.
Last nights accommodation:
Aspen Village Waterton Park.
Budget accommodation with parking included and nearby restaurants which give a discount to hotel patrons. Comfortable bed, hot shower and we were warm and dry.
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We spent the majority of our day riding through great tracts of farmland which looked immaculate and skirting around and through foothill and mountain regions so lots of great scenery to see and we had no rain except a sprinkle as we got into our accommodation at Waterton Park. Yay. We came via the Frank Landslide site as we had come across it about 11 years ago and were intrigued by the story. Back then it was a sealed road which wound through massive debris, now it is a massive road with parking lanes each side and talk of making it a 4-lane road. The whole area had grown incredibly in that time including coal mining, and logging and the arrival of a few oil donkeys, wind turbines as well.
Some interesting facts: Elevation above sea level.
Waterton Park Canada –1,290m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today – 1,507m
Turtle Mountain which experienced the land slide at 4.01am April 29th, 1903, when a wedge of limestone over 1km wide, 425m long and 150m deep broke from the crest smashing apart as it slid downwards breaking into boulders that rolled and bounced down the side of the mountain and spread across the valley covering part of the Frank township. 70 people are known to have died as a result.
And the other side of the road and valley.
The Foyer of the Prince of Wales Hotel in Waterton Park built in 1926 – 27.
And the view through the window to the Lake. We had a hot chocolate on the LHS of this area. Lovely.
Looking upwards in the foyer. Wonderful craftsmanship.
The view of Waterton Park from the hotel.
And a shot from the outside, with some bikes of course. The wind was so strong it nearly blew me over a couple of times walking to the hotel before I was sheltered from it. The lake is apparently known as the windiest in Canada and I could believe it.
Last nights' accommodation:
Best Western Plus Suites Downtown Calgary.
A generous space and comfortable room with kitchenette. Was nice to have room to spread out. Breakfast included and parking for a small fee. Guest Laundry on site which was great even though not listed on the website but in the process of being refurbished literally from the basement up and it will be lovely when done. Helpful staff and booked us in early which was appreciated. No pic.
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A short ride to Starbucks at Canmore for breakfast and then we headed off on Highway 1 (the old highway) to Calgary. The weather was cold but clear and we loved the initial surrounds of rugged mountains but missed them, apart from the view of snow-covered peaks in our rear vision mirrors the further we progressed to Calgary. We pulled off at Cochrane for a stretch and ice-cream just before we headed into Calgary proper. Huge amounts of development around Cochrane with a pretty mind-numbing sameness about it. Such a shame. As for Calgary, well it’s another big city but at least the sun came out this afternoon.
Calgary Canada –1,048m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today – 1,370m
Last breakfast in the mountains for a while at Canmore.
And into Cochrane, serious about their western heritage and this is considered the historic downtown but looks newly built to us. Quirky all the same.
And again.
And again, and there was even an old guy on the veranda playing a piano, sounded good.
And an old codger with his 1940 V8 Ford which was built on the day he was born.
Last 2 nights' accommodation:
Charlton’s Banff.
A nice comfortable and spacious suite with plenty of room to stow all our gear and a roomy shower as well as a bath. Parking available under the building for a small fee. Normally breakfast included but not until the official season in June. Not to worry a discount is available at a neighboring hotel and plenty of options nearby. Real china again, how grown up do we feel!
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A leisurely Starbucks breakfast was followed by a ride up Sulphur Mountain to the Gondola ride in very light snow which was all kinds of awesome. The views were spectacular and well worth going up in the gondola for a second time for us. It really did show how much the town has grown since our last visit. We were staggered by the number of people on the gondola considering it is so early in the holiday season. There are lots of young Aussies working there so good to say hi. We are told they can move around 650people an hour on the gondola, and I could believe that, and it is the largest twin cable gondola in Northern America and was the first one built.
Banff Canada –1,383m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today – 2,281m at top of Gondola ride.
Specie view from our hotel this morning.
An around town view with Norm parked up waiting for the shopper.
Chilling at the Gondola before our ride.
A shot of the gondola ride from the ground.
And another.
View from the summit looking down over Banff.
And another further east.
And one from the Northern Lights café where we had a delicious lunch and watched the snow move in, only briefly.
And finally, the last one across the golf course and man does it have a heap of sand traps!
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Today was 303kms surrounded by snow covered mountains in all directions and was one of WOW WOW and WOW and the bonus was we stayed dry throughout in spite of some very cold weather and threatening clouds and even a smattering of snow both on the road and as we parked at Lake Louise.
Some interesting facts: Elevation above sea level.
Banff Canada –1,383m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228ms
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today – 1,750m (1,600m at Lake Louise)
Our view at breakfast this morning.
An opportunity for a photo at one of many roadwork stops. Kept the bikes running for the heat from the exhausts and grip heaters.
Lake Louise carpark where parking was a premium.
And the lake complete with ice. Friends were here 2 weeks ago, and people were walking on the cracking ice!
And the Chateau Fairmont built in 1911 and undergoing a pretty huge refurbishment.
A view from the dining room to the lake.
Now in Banff and we still have rugged mountains everywhere even behind our hotel as you can see.
Lovely meal at a neighboring hotel and this was the foyer. Very nice.
Last nights' accommodation:
The Grizz Hotel Revelstoke.
A somewhat underwhelming view from outside was replaced with a tasteful refurbish inside. Furnishings and décor Asian inspired and very nicely done. Room comfortable and furnishings generous. We even had china cups and real glasses instead of paper and plastic we have experienced just about everywhere, and all the staff were helpful. Light breakfast and parking included. A restaurant was attached, and a 5% discount applied when we showed our room key.
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Our day started in sunshine, and we remained in fair weather for the most part with all sorts of black clouds and rainstorms in all sorts of directions around us. It finally caught up to us at our lunch stop with hail then rain and it was wet for most of the trip from there into Revelstoke. In spite of the cold the scenery was again awe inspiring starting with deep glacier scoured valleys with rock and sand debris left in layers and then a combination of incredibly steep mountainsides forested from top to bottom, seemingly vertical rock cliff faces plunging into water and yet trees and vegetation hanging on in precipitous places and green lush pastures and farmland in narrow bands alongside rivers and lakes. Impossible to take in and sawmills with delicious smelling timber and logs in the water beside them. How Canadian!
Some interesting facts: Elevation above sea level.
Revelstoke Canada –480m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today – 560m
Coffee stop at a motorcycle museum, but we had miles to cover so coffee only.
Signs of what was ahead, and even another golf resort under development, we saw many on our trip.
A quaint lunch stop where the hail then the rain finally caught up with us.
And in the opposite direction as it approached.
What else could I do? A work shot.
And another.
And our view from our hotel tonight.
Last nights' accommodation:
The Plaza Hotel Kamlooops.
A Lovely old period hotel with breakfast included in the ballroom no less! Comfortable accommodations though I started to panic on our way to our room seeing men’s and women’s bathrooms and thought I must have let one slip through without checking we had our own bathroom but phew we did. Pub on site and handy spot for dinner and parking beside for a minimal charge.
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We started in the rain and added fog and freezing temperatures for good measure. Once my toes were fully wet and we climbed to our maximum altitude for the trip I felt as if it would be welcome if my toes just dropped off but thankfully, they didn’t, and the weather eventually improved. We have seen gob smacking mountains and cliffs plummeting into galloping rivers and literally log jams in the larger one’s incredible forests and mountainsides of rock. In one way it was disappointing to have so much of the mountains wrapped in fog, but it was probably safer that way as there was just way too much to take in as it was. We are truly blessed to be able to experience this firsthand and we even met another biker today, so we weren’t the only mad fools out on the road …. And we provided a fair bit of entertainment for the locals as we pulled into the hotel tonight. Phone was tucked safely away today so few pics.
Kamloops Canada –345m
Mount Kosciusko Australia – 2,228m
Traralgon Australia (hometown) – 60m
Highest elevation on our travels today – 1,682m and blisteringly cold!
Last night's view from our room, the fog had finally lifted, and we could see the snow.
And then this morning fog and rain, ah well.
Brief stretch stop after the worst of the cold and thanks to Norm who dug his phone out and this was the view one way. This is where trucks need to check brakes. This area requires all vehicles to fit winter tyres from October 1st to March 31st. We were pleased we had fitted new rear tyres in Portland.
And the other.
And soon after we came across a car stopped in the middle of a corner and WOW, we had a very big bear.
Our lunch spot, the Hat Creek Ranch which was a welcome break. Norm and I stopped here on a previous trip, and I got a photo of a hummingbird attracted by a honey feeder. Not on the balcony today though it had gotten to be a more comfortable temperature and better roads from hereon in. Note a glimpse of blue sky and the angle of the flag. The wind heading in over the last half hour or so had been incredible and much the same as we headed off though not for long.
Last nights' accommodation:
Pinnacle Hotel Whistler.
A lovely place to stay with self-catering possible but again not interested. Couldn’t check in until 3pm which was a downer since the weather had seen to it that we couldn’t do any sightseeing on the way, and we had wet gear on and also with the bikes. But the hotel itself is lovely and welcoming.
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