We woke to sunshine and magpies warbling after nearly12 hours in bed. Man we sleep well when we're riding!

Been a picturesque day. Breakfast at Castlemaine (way too many beautiful buildings to start taking photos). Coffee at Maldon (got a couple there).



A little cottage between Castlemaine and Maldon.

Lunch at Daylesford after travelling through Newstead and Hepburn Springs then wandered down through Trentham and hit the freeway a bit before the Bacchus Marsh area then on into the city where we had more coffee at the TDT offices in West Melbourne.

After the assault to the senses yesterday of all the green it was a shock to see how dry it was through the Midlands, particularly around the hills surrounding Bendigo and beyond. Much land had been totally dry and had recently gained a thin dusting of green and in other areas it was a darker green, but only colour, little substance to it. Dams empty or very low levels. So, gold is not the only element which has left the area but water has as well.

It's been a beautiful ride with winding roads through beautiful trees, farmland, historic old settlements and unexpected vistas. Clearly an area which needs to be explored further in the future. Many of the roads in heavily treed areas we're very bumpy, I wonder if that's because of the extended dry and the ground shrinking away with the roots left to form the bumps. Not an engineer but sounds a reasonable hypothesis until someone who knows better shoots it down in flames.



Streetscape in Maldon.

Had to crank up the hand grip warmers on the way to Trentham and left them on until we were down around the level of Bacchus Marsh Brrrrrr! The countryside around Trentham was reminiscent of the Thorpdale area not far from home. The soil looked the same chocolaty red, the trees were tall with massive trunks and the rolling paddocks were often surrounded by cypress plantations. Obviously a lot higher rainfall than surrounding areas with the level of growth through the area. We had visited Trentham around 4 years ago with my cousin and husband before we headed off on our Scandinavian holiday and we passed through Trentham the day after the hotel there burnt down. At the time I made the comment that the hotel must have been due a re-build. It was still boarded up today so it must have been a 'genuine' burn rather than a 're-build' one. (See I haven't just recently gotten cynical, I already was 4 years ago).

From Trentham we gradually wound our way down from Trentham through dense wooded areas and it somehow seemed out of character to smell the fragrance of damp fermented wood in some of the gullies after seeing so much water deprived land since Bendigo. Once down to the freeway and on to the city the vast plains looked equally as bare and dry as a lot we had seen in the interior. Bare earth with no sign of green other than the weeds along the fringe of the highway. Pretty chilling stuff at this point in the year with the weather as cold as it is even if generous rains fall through the rest of the winter there will be little growth until the spring when the soil starts to warm up again. (That's a throw back to my days growing up on the farm....must have been paying attention after all!)



View of the Town Hall from our lunch spot in Daylesford

We survived our return to full on city traffic even with stop start traffic over the Westgate bridge and then later out to Canterbury to what we call our Canterbury B&B (my cousins home) for another holiday first. We got stuck in the lift (until it re-set itself). Being 'can do' people we looked for the ceiling hatch which is in all stuck lifts in the movies but alas, none there and had to resort to the emergency phone. Ah well, you get that on the big jobs.

So we have a couple of nights here for a brief bit of R&R (so no update tomorrow) before we head home to catch up with parents, children and grandchildren. That's the easy stuff, after that it's back to work......that's the hard stuff though not all bad news since it's what will fund the next excellent adventure!

Talk to you day after tomorrow for the holiday wrap up.

Rain overnight and wet roads this morning but the days riding was largely comfortable with hand grip warmers only on low for the majority of the day.I didn't even have the polar fleece top on which just proves it didn't need to be surgically removed!

We had sunshine for near enough to the entire day with only a few patches of cloud to ride through though the view in the rear view mirror was often dark grey and threatening. (Best place for a view like that!) We started the day surrounded by hundreds of acres of grapes and some citrus trees and then moved into intensive sheep, wheat and cropping land. Great open plains with rich red soil and vibrant green new shoots in some areas and vigorous growth in others. The eucalyptus beside the road were prolific in number with slender limbs and dense foliage.

The view gradually changed to more rolling hills than flat paddocks and the intensity of the cropping became less so. In fact the closer we got to Bendigo it was obvious that a lot of areas where there were crops last year now had grass growing up through the stubble, possibly a reflection on how late the rains have come in the season. Also nice to see the increase in stature of the gums and a few more hills, I'm just more used to that I guess. Overall the whole day has been an experience of green, green and more green and it was easy to track how much rain had fallen and over what period of time from the first flush of almost fluro green of new growth to the darker and more dense growth where there has been more sustained availability of water for longer periods. We definitely experienced returning to the south eastern green edge of our great brown / red land.



The hotel at Sea Lake. All locked up. A bit sad really.

We've both enjoyed the sights of lots of little communities also today. Some apparently doing pretty well and much pride evident in their towns and others clearly struggling. The huge number of old (both dilapidated and beautifully preserved) buildings on our approach to Bendigo was almost too much to take in after our enjoyment of the vast emptiness of the interior. Part of this for me also was a sense of almost depression or at least reluctance as we head back to our version of the 'real world'. Do I really want to take it all on again?

We have had a number of discussions over our trip of family, friends and colleagues who have had health scares and totally changed what they do with their lives as a result. Norm's response to that was to say he needs to have a think about what he would do differently if he had a health scare and just forget about having one and get on with doing what he would do if he did. (Practical as always). I wonder how different that would be to what he is already doing. Obviously there would be much motorbike riding involved......but I wonder how different otherwise!!! Not really game to think too hard about that one for me yet. Quite apart from the work side of things I've enjoyed being out from under the immediate responsibility of oversight of the care for my frail aged parents and their progressive deterioration. Thankfully Norm's Dad has been much more able though he is currently in hospital also. I'm getting better at not wearing the burden so personally but obviously need to work more on that. Tomorrow (as in from here on) is another day. Mate, mate, m a t e!! Have I ever got the poor me's something chronic! The holiday aint over yet and I hereby commit myself to making the most of whatever is left!



The Bendigo city hall in the distance with the approaching grey clouds. This was the end product of my lets get the joints moving again walk while Norm cleaned the helmets and bikes. I'm so spoilt !

Oh yeah, we were talking to a couple of police officers today and no it wasn't on the side of the road or at least not in an official capacity. They unfortunately confirmed that when their cycle cops talk on their radio's they sound like they have their heads in a bucket and its pretty useless. Ah well.

Talk to you tomorrow.



Lakeview Hotel our home for the night $40. (Can't see the lake!)

Well after a sometimes noisy night, at times from the odd blue or two in the bar below (no breaking glass) to wheel spins, shouting and noisy motors outside we headed off for an early start and didn't feel too bad about warming the bikes up for a while before we headed off. Ha ha.

We breakfasted briefly with two old timers from Adelaide who had been holidaying in Broken Hill for the week. The older of the two, also the fitter of the two, would have had to have been in his late 80's having served in the navy from1940 to 1946 and who had entertained me by the fireplace last night. He had spent the day on a local mail run most of it on dirt roads. travelling over 500 kilometres with 40 stops for pickups and drops. He was one of 5 paying passengers at $125 a piece. They took their own lunch and had a cuppa made for them by the postie. Seriously having a go. What an inspiration!



A service bell with a difference from the Coomella fuel stop. (The key for the toilets was attached to a mouse trap).

The day started sunny and cold and went to bloody cold and back to moderately cold. Hand grip warmers most of the day back and forth from high to low then once we hit Mildura we got a sprinkle of rain and it warmed up and the warmers stayed on low. The light shower lasted until we got through Irymple and it stopped and returned to sunshine again. We enjoyed our ride and were near enough to the only traffic on the road until we got to Wentworth. The roads were largely straight with big sweeping corners and very nice to ride. Our butts appreciated the movement from one side to another. We also saw the greatest concentration of road kill (all kangaroos) mainly up until Coomella since the Longreach Winton area. Shame to see so many beautiful animals meet their demise. From large to small and colours ranging from a light sandy grey to red and every shade in between.

We also saw a fair few sheep in stretches from Broken Hill and Wentworth and some cattle near Broken Hill. No camels today but a couple of big kangaroos first thing this morning and some emus about 20 kilometres out of Wentworth and large numbers of wild goats throughout the day. These last were largely more road savvy than the kangaroos as we didn't see any of their number amongst the road kill. We also saw a couple of small packs of Major Mitchell Cockatoos lifting off as a group with magnificent white back and top of wings changing in an instant to a soft coral pink under the wings. Beautiful.



The sign outside the loos at the same road house as the shot above.

I was aware as we gradually made our way south that our great adventure is drawing to a close and found myself really soaking up the variable landscape. The red sandy soil with silver grey salt bush. The rolling plains of grasslands with dark green mounds of trees around watercourses and homesteads and then the red sand drifts with little grass and small covering of trees. It all looked and felt great and it somehow seemed fitting that we we're left largely to ourselves to enjoy it. It was also a distraction to the dark grey clouds we were continually approaching then steering away from throughout the trip.

The purpose of our destination today was to catch up with 4 of my cousins and their partners which was a treat. They are the children of the marriage of one of my Mum's cousins to one of my Dad's cousins and literally gave my Dad the dilemma (so he said) 'that a man couldn't even complain about his wife's bloody relations!'. I'm confident that didn't ever stop him if he thought he needed to. We shared lunch together and had a great time catching up. So nice to feel so comfortable amongst them when we have gotten to spend such a short amount of time together over the years. What lovely people they are and what a privilege to share the time with them.

Talk to you tomorrow.



A collective cousin and outlaws shot (Normie being the photographer).

This will be short. I just deleted the update when I added the wrong picture. I need to find a cupboard to lock myself in so I can scream loudly and it would be best to leave the blackberry outside the cupboard at the time!

Yesterdays PS:
If you are in Port Augusta and need a bed we can recommend Ian's Western Hotel. The staff looked after us beautifully and allowed us use of our room way after checkout each day till we knew if we would be staying or going. We worked our way through the dinner menu which was great, not a dud amongst them. They also locked up the bikes at night. We were also grateful to CP Motorbikes & Accessories for the young mechanic who methodically diagnosed my unusual problem and put it all back together after YAMAHA sorted parts from Sydney.

Today:
We had rain overnight and woke to sunny clear skies and wet roads but headed off in warmer conditions than we had finished in yesterday. Thank God! Even got the hand grip warmers on to low a few times today so a vast improvement.

We had a pleasant ride through sweeping grassy plains which progressively became more sandy and stony and hilly. Saw a few emus and wild goats and a huge eagle perched on a telegraph pole cross arm which made the pole look ridiculously small. We also saw a couple of camels but that was really cheating as they belong (I suspect) to a camel farm not far distant.



The Yunta road house brand of humour which appealed.

We had breakfast at Yunta after a pleasant ride. As we had headed due east into the sun the glare on the wet roads was blinding so it was a relief as the roads dried out and we headed in a bit different direction. We stopped for fuel and a drink at the SA / NSW border and caught up with a couple of truckies who knew our trucks and one who had travelled with one of our drivers a short while ago. Small world! The staff at the road house were friendly but I won't name the town as I dubbed it the backside of the world. I think you would need to have a very strong constitution to live there and not get seriously depressed.



SA / NSW border. The bikes are there but you have to look.

We headed off the track to visit Silverton on our way into Broken Hill. To be strictly correct I should say the remains of the town. In its heyday in the late 1800's it was the richest Silver Field in the country and the Silverton Hotel we went to see is the only remaining hotel of the 10 licensed originals. The hotel is quite famous having featured in many films and TV series including 'Wake in Fright', 'The Golden Soak', 'A Town Like Alice', 'Mad Max II', 'Razorback', 'Dirty Deeds' and 'The Craic' also numerous TV commercials. Needless to say we took a pic of the hotel with bikes and the car from Mad Max II which sits out front. Morning light would have been better for the pic.



The Silverton Hotel with the bikes and Mad Max's car.

A great sight we were treated to a couple of times today was seeing some packs of galahs likely in the hundreds lift off the ground then duck and weave across in front of us as they gained height. We were treated to a uniform silver grey display as their backs were to us and then in an instant as they changed direction it would be the bright pink of their under sides then back to grey again as if on queue Awesome.

Broken Hill is a huge place but getting a little empty and sad looking. In its heyday the population was around 38,000 but is down to 20,000. We had planned to spend a few days here but the Port Augusta sojourn sort of interrupted that. Not to worry, that will be another trip and I'll stay somewhere a bit less scary than the West Darling Hotel. It’s a great huge barn of a place and very cold. I'm currently keeping the fire in the lounge company.

Talk to you tomorrow.



The Broken Hill Vietnam Veterans memorial looking across the law courts and government buildings to the council offices.

The railway was the Pichi Richi railway and runs on vintage steam trains as well as diesel. Runs every weekend from Port Augusta to Quorn and public holiday weekends from Quorn to Wool shed Flats and back. Very expensive. $350 from Pt Augusta to Quorn (don't know if that's 1 way or return) and
$300 for the Quorn Wool shed Flat run. ( I guess return). For $400 you get to travel in the engine and shovel the coal. Tattslotto win stuff or really wealthy tourists! We had some delicious soup and damper at the Quandong Cafe where we had dined at before on our previous trip. Looking forward to seeing more of the Flinders Ranges since our last serious visit was a family caravan holiday when Jenny was 8 months old just shortly before our return to Victoria to live.

Today:
Well the part came, the Doctor revived the patient, we broke her out of the hospital and shook the dust of Port Augusta from our boots and got out of town! Actually I use the term 'dust' loosely. As we headed south from Port Augusta we were assaulted with icy needles of rain and were treated to the sight of a spectacular rainbow out over the gulf. As we continued to head south the rain caught up with us and by the time we took the 'Sydney via Broken Hill' turn and headed east we had a perfect rainbow arch over the road in front of us. As we headed east we also realised we had benefited from a strong tail wind while heading south and it became a ferocious cross wind once we headed east across the flats to the bottom of the ranges. I was thankful that the rain we were riding in was not as heavy as back in the direction of Port Augusta as that had completely disappeared from view behind a dense white wall.

While the mediterranean nature of the weather has somewhat disappeared and at best we are back to grey clouds and icy winds it was good to be back on my bike and not have my knees bent up like half opened pocket knives and have my view half obscured by Norm's helmet as a pillion passenger. Not that I didn't enjoy the opportunity for a good snuggle of course.

We both enjoyed the view of the rippling nature of the Flinders Ranges as we headed out of Port Augusta and it was good to be folded up in their hills and valleys and gain some respite from the cross wind we had experienced from the highway to there. What a spectacular little bike ride it was through the hills to Wilmington where the country opened up again to rolling plains catering to sheep and wheat activities as well as some beef. Good to see a lot of green tinges around especially new wheat shooting in a lot of the beautiful red soil.

We also loved the town of Orroroo (think that's how you spell it, the map is still on the bike). This had a great long street with stately old shops with deep hot land type verandas out to the curb. Spectacular. Were it not for the fact that the rain had been pursuing us behind icy winds and anything which could ache in the cold was aching and the heated hand grip warmers were NOT keeping up with comfort levels we would have stopped for some pics, that will have to be the next trip.



The Railway Hotel Peterborough. Our room is the Family room (1 queen and 3 singles) at the corner under the cupola so a window / door on the front and side wall.

We are staying the night at the Railway Hotel and paid an extra $8 to get a room with a reverse cycle air conditioner / heater and bonus of bonuses we have an electric blanket on the bed (already turned on and cranked up to 3). Don't know what the temperature is now but it was only 7 degrees at 1pm today so unseasonably cold for here.

Talk to you tomorrow.



Part of the ceiling in the bistro. Nicely done.

Well here we are for another night in Port Augusta. The part has left Sydney but didn't make it to here. Where is a good transport company when you need one? So another night at Ian's Western Hotel. Not all bad news as we work our way through the dinner menu. Haven't had a dud yet.
Not to be beaten. I got my hair done today and let's just say I'm glad I didn't say I wanted it really short! A bit of a surprise when the glasses went back on but I certainly won't have to worry about hair in my eyes inside the visor. Norm decided to get his hair done also so he wouldn't have to worry about hair in his eyes either. That also will not be an issue.....for a considerable time!



Old Mill (now Motel) in Quorn.

And since the status of tourist had been enforced we decided to do a quick trip out to Quorn this afternoon. A really picturesque ride out through rocky red rugged valleys dusted with silver grey salt bush and beautiful white gums along the creek beds. Just beyond the valleys the land becomes more gently undulating farmland for a bit before it gets seriously into the Flinders Ranges proper.



Streetscape in Quorn

The town is really picturesque and the historic buildings beautifully preserved. Much of the town and surrounding area were used in the making of the movies 'Robbery Under Arms' and 'The Shiralee'.

Not much else to report other than to say we called in to see the patient and the doctor in charge is confident that there are no issues so once the part is fitted tomorrow we should be on our way. Let's hope so.

Talk to you tomorrow.



Norm heading back to Port Augusta under a bridge for the historic (and still functioning) Pitchi Richi Railway from Port Augusta to Quorn.

Well still we wait!

Fully charged battery still no go. Electronic tech from Adelaide suggested it could be an issue with the computer worth $1,100 ouch and suggested a couple of tests to see if that was it. Should be repairable, the plan being that if so Norm would ride to Adelaide with the bit to be repaired then ride back. Did the tests and thankfully it wasn't the computer, phew! Turns out they have found a short in the pickup coil (whatever that is) I just know it means there's no spark getting to where it needs to go. So now the part is ordered from Sydney and is supposed to be here in the morning. ...all going well or if not, Friday morning. Looks like we really are tourists for a bit. Might even get the hair done so it's out of my eyes. That would be good.

Had some lunch at the Outback Visitor Centre then headed back to the hotel. Norm has a pretty sore throat so a quiet afternoon won't do him any harm.

Have attached a couple of pics from around a very cloudy Port Augusta. Much more comfortable today a balmy 15 degrees! Now that any of you in the eastern states are freezing your little butt's off perhaps you can now appreciate we haven't been kidding the last few days when we were saying how icy it's been.

Talk to you tomorrow.

]

A view across the inlet from east to west across the old wharf with the rail lines still in place though not in use obviously.



The old Court House.



More cloud reflections in the water heading back across the road bridge from east to west.

More strife to start the day. My bike wouldn't start again. Norm headed to the Yamaha shop for a battery (none in stock) so they got onto the local battery supplier who had one thankfully. In the meantime Norm disconnected the headlight to see if there would be enough oomph to fire but no go. Oh well, worth a shot. Fingers crossed it is just a battery issue and not a starter or something else. Ah machinery, wonderful when working! Talk about a captive market, a car battery retails at $80 where this little number set us back $150!

So change of plan, instead of breakfast at Wilmington we had to settle for egg and bacon sandwiches at the Mobil road house on the west side of Port Augusta while we waited on the battery. The breakfast and the premises were beautifully presented and seemed 5star after a lot we've eaten at over the last few weeks.

The first photo today is a PS from yesterday and is the kids tucked up for the night with the hotels extra grog supply. Bit of a concern leaving them there but did so with the lecture that we ride 00 so we don't need to call 000 and hoped they would just appreciate being in out of the weather and be responsible. Perhaps it wasn't the battery!



Last night’s resting place for the bikes

Actually it was good to see Port Augusta looking in such good shape. There had been considerable effort made by many owners of really historic old buildings (including the pub we stayed in) to have them painted up and presented well. This was an improvement on a few years ago when Norm and I brought a load over here for one of our customers then waited for the return after the shut at the power station which was where the gear we transported was being used. The town was looking pretty tired at that time. On that weekend we actually put our spare time in by exploring more of the local area which was good.

Talking on improvements in appearance yesterday’s entrance from the north of the town was spectacular compared to 72. At that time the approach was truly ugly! There was a jumble of shacks and derelict yards and buildings and the sudden appearance of power lines and mammoth TV ariels was an assault on the senses after the remoteness and peace of the interior. Obviously been a concentrated clean-up effort and a credit to them. Now we just progressed from grassy plains beside a tidy north marching power line and just entered the town in a tidy suburb. Very nice.



A sorry sight my bike in bits at the Mobil as the black clouds approach. (That's weather type clouds I'm referring to).

Well the bike drama continued to unfold. After starting albeit using Norm's spark plugs, after fuelling up it refused to do so again. Turning over well but absolutely no spark. Norm checked all the fuses and connections and tried with and without choke. Continued to turn over but WILL NOT fire up.
Got back onto the bike shop who sent a tech up but he just confirmed what we already know, it' not going anywhere soon. At this point we would be concerned if it did go because while we don't know why it won't go, if it decided to it could just as easily let us down at a later place and time. So we waited for what seemed like forever for the bike shop people to get back with a trailer to pick it up. Told them we were RACV Total Care which arrange for collection but were told there is no-one here who does that. Norm also called the Yamaha Shop in Darwin where we had them serviced to see if they had any suggestions. To quote them 'it could be anything but just make sure they check all the connections and the coil. They're usually just so reliable and fire straight up' which has also been our experience until now.

When the trailer arrived Norm having a functioning bike was the accompanying family member to go and hear the status and prognosis of the patient while I got us settled back into the same room at the pub we had last night. So now I have an anxious wait hoping Norm can arrange whatever specialist assistance my little girl needs to return to perfect health.



The patient (my bike) on the ambulance (trailer) heading for the hospital (bike shop).

Another unsettling element was how reluctant Norm's bike was to fire up before he left. When we transferred the fuel from the jerry can to my bike yesterday it was an awful watery colour and we wondered if we'd been sold opal / opel fuel (don't know how you spell that) at Coober Pedy. This is the only fuel allowed to be sold to the indigenous population as it doesn't have the additives which maker sniffing it dangerous. We'd had this explained to us at Curtin Springs when we asked why their pumps were all padlocked. We had apparently pulled up at the opal / opel pump and were told we wouldn't want that in our bikes. The fuel we got this morning in Port Augusta looked equally pale. Who knows if it's crook or just what they can get!

Talk to you tomorrow, hopefully with good news re the bike.

Well have you been looking at the news tonight? The weather report confirms our firsthand experience of the front coming through from the south west. It's freezing!

That said the day started cold. All the layers on apart from waterproof jackets and hand grip warmers on high. We were comfortable enough and were soon able to alternate from high to low and back again on the warmers. They need a middle setting because high was too high but low was too low. Proof again that the day was a smidgen less cold than yesterday. We ran into a shower Just north of Glendambo which as Murphy would dictate was just before we had to transfer the fuel from the jerry can into my bike. It has been running slightly richer since it was serviced in Darwin and I've had to go onto reserve a couple of times when my tank hadn't been topped right up where prior to arriving in Darwin we would literally have to reach for the reserve tap at the same time. Anyway we had been travelling a good 10 to 15 kilometres slower from Coober Pedy till then and cut back another 10 kilometres till Glendambo since Norm went onto reserve 10 kilometres after me. One really good outcome of the rain was that the temperature became less cold and in spite of dire predictions from north bound travellers of how much rain they had driven through right back from Port Augusta, and we saw a lot of the proof of that with wet roads, we only got a slight sprinkle a couple of times between there and Port Augusta and enjoyed some sun on our shoulders late in the afternoon.

Oh forgot to mention we had a bit of strife this morning. There we were conscious it was a long weekend and not wanting to disturb other residents at the Opal Inn with the bikes firing up and instead our day started out with both bikes refusing to start! Norm eventually got his to fire up but mine had to be pushed to start down the only hill in the main street. To quote Norm to me stating the obvious somewhat 'push it like starting the bike depends on it'. We provided a good bit of entertainment for some of the local indigenous people sitting around the roundabout at the top of the hill both the hoppity kick run with my pushing effort and the Michelin girl appearance complete with open helmet as I pushed and the gasping for breath as I walked back up the hill. Anyway the thing went. Started okay for the rest of the day at all stops including the refuelling in the rain EXCEPT after lunch when it would have been coldest at Pimba and then it was the old push routine again. Thank God it fired more quickly then because it was VERY flat.

My reference to 'Michelin girl' is a generous description of me decked out with long johns, draggin jeans and waterproof pants on the lower half with a sleeveless T, a long sleeved T, a polar fleece jacket and my Dri-rider jacket which has the outer jacket plus a waterproof lining and a quilted padded lining on the top half! Thank God it hadn't been raining when the bike didn't start this morning because when I also have to don the hip length waterproof jacket (for extra warmth and waterproofing) I go to 'Blimp girl' and then I can barely lift up my hands to undo my helmet. A very unflattering look. Normie is an equally attractive version. It' an interesting exercise if we want to give each other a hug. Likely looking to source a new battery in the morning since it's a public holiday today and the bike shop is shut. Damn, have to have a sleep in but I guess I'll cope.



Some driftwood desert style. The pic doesn't do it justice. Looks magnificent. The grain has opened up and has red stripes from the constant sand blasting of the sand.

The countryside has been less diverse than we have had. I was amazed that we had continuing gibber desert and mine workings for over 50 kilometres south of Coober Pedy. The amazement being at the extent of the mine works rather than the gibber. We continued to come across stretches of gibber from there until almost into Port Augusta. Was it not for the thin veil of silver grey of vegetation across the gibber we could be forgiven for thinking we were viewing great stretches of moonscape! In between we had stretches of sandy soil with grass and shrub and tree growth and more densely treed patches as well. Hard to imagine that people are making a living with cattle stations in these areas as the signs as we crossed another cattle grid would attest to with the name of the station we would be entering. Trust they are doing well, the lifestyle may have it's appeal but I bet their work is taxing.

A magnificent view was as we were only 10 to 15 kilometres from Port Augusta. We were travelling in under heavy cloud but looking to our left at the western slopes of the Flinders Ranges were in contrast brilliantly lit with sunlight. A spectacular sight!



A disappointing view of Lake Hart.

My blackberry is misbehaving and will no longer zoom as I take a photo. Don't know if it is locked or gotten a bit wet but will no longer function as it should and the end result is the same. Limits the options for pics which was a shame today. We'd stopped at Lake Hart to take a pic but was a bit ordinary from where we were as you can see above. Also working on the odd callous or two on the palms from hanging on so hard to the hand grips in the wind the last few days. The things we do!

Talk to you tomorrow.



The Western Hotel in Port Augusta a lovely old building and only $55 for the night.

Yesterdays PS:
Norm had great fun on his climb yesterday. A couple of examples of that would be comments to a number of climbers heading down near the top of the climb of 'sorry I can't stop and talk I want to beat my walk time from this morning' to which he had a huge variety of responses from suitable laughter to incredulous responses. There are a lot of gullible people about let me tell you. ...or perhaps it's oxygen deprivation. Then to finish as he stepped down off the rock from his climb he realised he'd stepped into a camera shot a tourist had set up. He said 'now that photo will be worth a lot of money'. When asked he responded 'you caught a real live fossil coming out of the rock!'

Today:
We started out a little later but the temperature from start to finish was uncomfortably cold. I'd already donned the long johns under the draggin jeans and waterproofs and the legs were more or less comfortable but the rest of me was freezing. The heated hand grip warmers were on high and not feeling like it. You've no doubt heard the saying that the lights are on but nobody was home, well today the sun was out but someone definitely forgot to pay the heating bill!



Road trains at Cadney Park Homestead (think that's what it's called and the map is under the cover outside and not looking now) a really nice WARM and welcoming place.

About 90 kms north of Marla despite many valiant position changes and stretching exercises my right hip started to threaten that it would likely go 'twang' and end up in a very painful position not consistent with being seated on a motorbike. At the same time I started catching Norm quickly and realised he had his left hand indicator on and we thankfully turned into a pretty rudimentary wayside stop. We got off the bikes, had a drink and a creaky walk, and complained about the cold. I climbed a hill of gravel to get a bit of perspective to take a couple of pics then we both walked down the other side out of the wind and lay down on the stones which were warmer than us and told each other we were soaking up the sun. I don't know if it was warmer than we had been or just less cold or if that's even a difference. We stayed for a bit then decided we'd better suck it up and get on with it. Norm actually folded up one of his T shirts to stuff down the front of my jacket to hopefully warm me up a bit more. He is my hero! When we fuelled up and got a hot coffee at the Marla Road House which gave the appearance of being caravan central, I also had a hunt in their store and found a polar fleece top which I bought and have been wearing since. It may well have to be surgically removed when I get home! Suffice to say the rest of the trip has been much more comfortable though the hand grip warmers stayed on high for the rest of the day so seriously nastily icy. As we got closer to Coober Pedy the cloud cover increased and the temperature wasn't so low but still needed the high setting for the hand grip heaters.

Having travelled a bit though remote Australia over the years I'm always amazed by people saying all the scenery is the same and despite the cold today I still enjoyed the ever changing countryside and vegetation and the myriad of combinations which were possible. The rolling desert like plains vary from light creamy pink to rich ochre red sandy soil occasionally becoming more gravely and stony. The plains change now and again to gently rolling hills with jumbles of rocky out crops and more substantial ranges. The vegetation cover can vary from none at all to a gossamer thin veil of grasses and low growing salt bush and scrubby bushes. Tree cover varies from none at all to a sporadic scattered number to dense collections usually around watercourses. These ones are usually also the largest which is hardly surprising. I'd just get used to what seemed like a new mix of the above and think okay this must be what it is now and the next couple of kilometres would see another change. So, ever changing and always beautiful in spite of the cold.



About as close to nothing in any direction for as far as you can see approximately 50 kms north of Coober Pedy.

Around 50 kms north of Coober Pedy we came into the gibber (stony) desert lands. Very little vegetation and what is there is low growing. When we got to around 35 kms out I realised that the last two times I'd been through Coober Pedy which was on our way to and from the National Road Transport Hall of Fame Reunion in Alice Springs 4 or 5 years ago was in the night time because I was gob smacked by the lumps, bumps, hills and mountains of mine tailings from all the opal mining in the area. What a mess!

The town has certainly grown since our visit in 72. Then the road was unsealed even through the main street and we booked a room in the ONLY motel in the town which was new. The rooms were okay but not a window in the whole room to combat the incessant red dust. The only hotel had recently burnt down amid a scandal of opal theft and a big argument between the hotel owner and another local. Such intrigue! There wasn't any restaurant at the motel but we got directions to the fish'n'chip shop around the corner. We stood for a bit looking at the building wondering how we could get in when the aluminium window to our side slid open and we were asked for our order which we gave. Next thing the window slid shut and a car drove past and then as we coughed and choked in the dust we understood the reasoning.

Well things today are nowhere as rudimentary with a lot of accommodation options and supermarkets and restaurants and oodles of opal sale points, just about every second shop, as well as all sorts of tour options. The road is sealed right through and even some curb and channelling and footpaths amongst the red dirt. The underground Catholic Church instead of being on the outskirts of town is now in about the middle and has been extended somewhat. Very quirky place.



Nola outside the underground Catholic Church at Coober Pedy in the faithful polar fleece. (That's literally underground not a fanatical fringe element) I have a photo of me and Danny and Michael in 72 and there wasn't a tree in sight then to throw shade anywhere!

We've fuelled up and filled the jerry can as the next fuel stop is 270 kms away and with the head and cross winds we've had today we want to have our bases covered. Have only seen a small number of road trains again but have continued to see the never ending march of caravans and the like towards the sun. Interestingly NO large road kill today and only a couple of small wallabies and a small handful of eagles. All of this is a direct opposite to our trip to the Hall of Fame when we were blown away at both. Hardly surprising really, quite a smorgasbord for the eagles and no doubt accounting for the progressive increase in numbers at that time. Wonder how they're managing now with the change of so much freight to the rail.

Talk to you tomorrow.

PS: The feedback seems to be that yesterday’s iconic shot of Ayers Rock is the crowd favourite (ours also) and unlikely to be outdone I suspect.

Yesterday's PS:
Turns out it's just as well we decided not to stay in Alice Springs yesterday. Being the long weekend they have a Finke Rally race (or something like that) a 400 kms race out through the desert in all manner of vehicle and then come back the next day so accommodation reportedly booked out.

Today:
Probably no surprise to anyone but we had another early start and headed west. Man was it COLD! Had the hand grip warmers on high until we got to The Rock / Ayers Rock / Uluru and the waterproof pants barely stayed on top of the chill factor. Thankfully we had the sun on our backs the whole way and gradually warmed up. Having said that I've worn my polar fleece neck warmer and waterproof pants all day and slowly warmed up and was comfortable by the time we got back then had the hottest shower I have EVER had and it was heavenly!!!

Our first stop this morning was at Mt Ebenezer where we had a toasted egg and bacon sandwich and juice. Yummy. A while after we headed off we became aware of a great huge something to the south which is just God teasing tourists. As you get closer the realisation is that the shape is all wrong to be THE rock. It is in fact Mt Connor. Needless to say since we have a grandson of that name we took a snap as we also did of Connor's Well yesterday.

Next stop Curtin Springs Station and we were greeted at the fuel pumps by the local resident emu. I would have liked to get a pic as he followed Norm to the pump but I wasn't quick enough to get the blackberry out and I have to confess I was a bit reluctant to have skin and especially eyes which were at his beak level exposed. He un-hurriedly checked out Norm and the bike then wandered off about his business without a backwards glance. Curtin Springs was where we stayed in 72 on our way back from the Rock and not a whole lot has changed let me tell you. The shop / bar building is basically the same and the outside dining area / beer garden under the grassy roof held up by poles is still there though probably renewed over time. The corrugated iron room we stayed in now looks to be staff quarters and has outer stone walls and the concrete block the corrugated iron outside loo and bathroom stood on is now partially covered by a laundry.

When we booked in back in 72 it was dark and well after 9.30pm. As they gave us the tour to our room they showed us where a candle and matches were and said that lights out was at 10pm. We brought our bags, the primus and food and the two boys in and were both tired and a bit grumpy thinking we'll turn our lights off when we we're good and ready but seconds later we realised there was a slight hesitation in a background noise we hadn't been previously aware of and realised that it coincided with a marginal dimming of the lights. Reality set in as we scrambled for the candle and matches before the generator turned right off and we had no lights. We thankfully got the candle lit before we were in complete darkness and then lit the primus and had our dinner by candlelight. Didn't really strike us as all that romantic at the time though we did have a good laugh as we later made our way to the outside loo in a strong wind with a candle which wanted to blow out!



Curtin Springs Station.

One of the pics today is of the shop side of Curtin Springs which just shows that while things may change they also stay the same. You can see the brush / grass roof to the left of the pic beyond the phone boxes which also weren't there. Another pic today is of the back of the staff polo tops there. Typical of a lot of the Territory humour which needless to say we enjoy and Norm especially hooks right into. Also took a pic of the front which refers to the staff being ugly but providing top hospitality and service. I asked if there was a choice about wearing it. He said no!.

We drove past the entrance to the Yulara Resort (no interest in that until we needed fuel in the afternoon) and just watched in awe as the Rock grew larger and larger. I really had forgotten just how awesomely magnificent the presence of it is. If you haven't seen it you MUST. We got the pick of the pics today from the car sunset viewing area compliments of a young couple.



The two oldies with bike in front of THE Rock!This is now the screensaver on my office PC as wellas part of the header for this blog.

Needless to say we returned the favour of taking a snap of them with their two littlies. We checked out the Cultural Centre which defiantly wasn't there in 72 (or the sealed roads so we were glad of that change) and headed to the Climb site which was open. Yes, Norm had decided to do the climb since he missed out last time. That time it was late in the afternoon and we didn't know how long it would take and I also wanted to check out the Olgas / Kata Tjuta so we had headed for them. As it turned out we didn't make it to them as it was getting dark so we turned round and headed back to Curtin Springs where we'd decided to stay.

I'd decided through the night last night that the climb might be a bit too arduous for my knee when its already working hard with all the riding so I took a pic of Normie at the climb site, kissed him goodbye and headed for the Olgas. The ride out was a lovely one and they were worth the ride. The extra riding took my daily total to 630 kms and I have no desire to beat it.

We arrived back tired but satisfied with the day’s exploits and ready for another great dinner and some planning for tomorrow. Had our dinner talking to a couple from Newborough. Small world.
Last time we took the Mulga Park Road just east of Curtin Springs which heads south for a good distance then heads back to the Stuart Highway. Staff at Curtain Springs had told us it was a similar distance and as long as we didn't mind opening and closing gates instead of crossing cattle grids it would be fine. We have a photo of the sign on one gate clearly expressing frustration of the property owner it said 'SHUT THE BLOODY GATE'. Didn't see any of them today.

Talk to you tomorrow.



Curtin Springs Station Staff shirt.

Yesterdays PS:
When we called in to 3ways for lunch yesterday we spotted a couple of BMW bikes and big square panniers complete with tousle headed riders and helmet cams covered in red dust and straight away thought. 'Could this in fact be Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman of a long way round and a long way down fame?' Well as it turns out no it wasn't, just a couple of adventurers from Melbourne on a 12 week adventure up the east coast, across the gulf and now heading to Darwin and having a ball and uncertain if they should be taking home filmed evidence of their disasters and mishaps for their wives to see! We so regret we didn't take a pic and send it to everyone and say 'you'll never believe who we saw at 3ways today!' Anyway we all had an enjoyable chat comparing notes of our travels.

Today:
The day has been cloudy from start to finish with the main variation being the density of cloud from heavy and threatening to light and white with patches of blue....mainly in the distance. We have had an occasional welcome splash of sunshine which has made for greater comfort albeit briefly. Needless to say we were layered up well and even donned the waterproof pants to guard against the chill factor and left them on till a late lunch in Alice Springs.

Have enjoyed the view as we’ve ridden to the Alice through many red craggy bluffs and little mountains and canyons surrounded by grassy plains occasionally scrubby but increasingly well grassed. The mountain side of things has diminished somewhat south of Alice Springs being more distant but spectacularly blue with the humidity in the area. Particularly love the large white trunk gums which remind me of the area especially around any watercourses.

The road has been in good condition overall. The surface pretty smooth for the most part and good grade and camber. Quite an eye opener to see some of the old creek crossings in the distance considering they were in fact sealed when we travelled in 72, they really were pretty rudimentary. There has also been an almost total absence of road trains south of 3ways other than livestock and fuel. Their absence is made up by heaps of car and caravan combinations and a few cars and campers and a handful of 5th wheelers and assorted campers and Winnebago type arrangements. Clearly we are 2 of the very few people heading south!

As they say there is a fine line between pleasure and pain and I've found also between enjoyment and endurance. The cold today has made hard work of it for me. I was grateful of the heated hand grip warmers. Once we left Alice Springs we left the waterproof pants off as the temperature was comfortable (don't know what it was but 23 was forecast). As we headed south of Stuarts Well we could see a magnificent rain storm off to the east complete with some lightening as well as the continuing showers to the west as we had tracked for most of the afternoon. We (thankfully) were heading for blue sky but got some unwelcome rain on the way. We stopped and compared notes once re do we don the waterproofs or not and decided no. Thankfully we only got a couple of lightish showers with our gear drying pretty much straight away and thankfully rode into the sun. YES! God it felt good but I still haven't warmed up and have my long sleeve T on as well as my cotton jacket and have left my draggin jeans and bike boots on for warmth rather than getting into shorts and T shirt like all the holiday makers. Norm on the other hand is in a T shirt. I read somewhere years ago that women can withstand hunger better than men but men can withstand cold better. My personal research (between the two of us) supports the theory.



Alice Springs Council offices.

We called in to take a picture of the old Overland Telegraph Station at Barrow Creek this morning and then headed for the Road house / Hotel / Caravan Park which was an experience to say the least! The only reason we could tell which part of the derelict yard was the caravan park was because there was a camper parked there. The building looked like an abandoned old dump and the apron around the pumps was a combination of sand, pot holes and crumbling concrete and rocky lumps. There were a couple of locals wandering about and the accumulation of 'stuff' about was awesome to behold, but Norm really wanted to visit the little boys room if there was one so he went to investigate. I sat on my bike enjoying the heat of my exhaust pipe until he summoned me in. He'd found a hot coffee and once I moved I decided I should seek out the little girls room as well. It was quite a contract to get in.

After getting a key which finally worked I had a choice of 1 functioning loo of 4 but it did work. The coffee was hot and we warmed our fingers as we wandered around the pub which was full of notes of varying currency and countries of origin with greetings on all of them pasted to the wall as well as all manner of clothing autographed and left hanging. The publican complained that the fire brigade would 'likely be through again to say they're a fire hazard and they'll all have to come down again'. There were also inscriptions and names and verses on just about every visible surface including the pressed tin ceiling in the bar (must have been late night additions those ones). The classic (one of tonight's pics) was a T shirt with the quote 'Its tourist season why can't I shoot one?' Appealed to me! See below.



The Barrow Creek T shirt.

Another quirky visit was our lunch spot in Alice Springs. We parked the bikes in front of the Council Offices (another pic) and headed across the road to Bojangles Saloon. The decor was great. Lots of corrugated iron, cow hide seats with the hair still on and timber slab tables. They were playing great music from the 60's to the 90s and the staff were a crack up with great senses of humour and the more we looked around the more quirky bits we found. There were heaps of boots of varying sizes, styles and colours stuck to the ceiling by their soles but the loos topped the lot. The main entrance doors had a pull handle on the hinge side for a door which had to be pushed open. The toilet seats were the clear resin type and we're full of barbed wire in the ladies and razor blades in the men's. The taps turned on water in an adjoining basin rather than the one it should have and the hand dryer switch turned on the neighbouring dryer rather than the one with the switch. Should make for some funny sights late at night! Definitely worth a look if you are passing through.

We are staying at the Erldunda Roadhouse tonight south of Alice Springs which is a thriving concern and a relief after some of the places we have encountered today. Not sure if we are continuing south tomorrow or heading for the rock. Will depend a bit on the weather.

Talk to you tomorrow.



A fair dinkum NT road train. I had planned to take it more from front on so the perspective and size would be more impressive but as I headed out the driver finished his check, jumped in and started to drive off so this is it!

A day or so before we left on our trip our brother in law was checking out our luggage lined up on the billiard table at home (our 2 x panniers each and the big bags for the pillion seats) and thinking he was making a joke said 'so where is your accommodation and catering supplies if you get into difficulties?' to which we pointed to my big bag and told him what was in it. I'm ashamed to say I did enjoy his shocked expression.

So, my Emergency (can the marriage survive opening it) bag, and the answer is 'probably not'.

Nola's Emergency bag contents:
1 x box matches.
1 x pack of fire lighters.
1 x 2 man tent.
2 x sleeping bags.
Assorted snacks - seeds, nuts and dried fruit.
4 x dehydrated meals (just add boiling water) and yes they do work because we did a trial before we left and then made the decision that mexican rice would not be accompanying us on our trip!
2 x LED miners lights with head bands.
1 x stainless steel cooking set comprising 1 x 1 litre saucepan 1 x 1.5 litre saucepan 1 x fry pan 2 x plastic mugs 2 x spoons.
2 x tubes coffee and condensed milk.
4 x serves muesli.
2 x large bottles of water.
1 x first aid kit.
1 x stove (burner and fuel canister).
Bike service manuals.
So as you can guess the use of just about any of this would pretty much say
things have turned to the smelly stuff!
I also carry my waterproof and padded jacket liners in the side pockets as well as my long sleeve T shirt when shedding the layers.
My bike glove box contents:
My waterproof pants.
The Yamaha tool kit.
1 x chamois.
(My spare key is on an inside pocket of my jacket).
Talk to you again tomorrow.



Nola at the Devils Marbles. Note the big Emergency bag in the middle at the back. (I had another pic but Normie reckoned this gave a more accurate perspective of size. ...I think he just like the picture!

We headed off early again this morning as we had a fair trek in front of us and wanted to beat the heat of the day. The temperature when we started reminded us we're in the interior and it is basically a desert complete with very low overnight temperatures! We stopped soon after starting and added another layer to the clothing.

A fair bit of road kill evident early this morning. Many eagles large and small about. Norm came close to having an unwelcome encounter with one. There was a group off the side of the road beyond the fog line and as we approached several took to flight. Norm could see there was still a big one there standing his big fluffy leg ground and not planning on going anywhere soon so he had slowed and moved towards the middle white line. The eagle ultimately had second thoughts and started to take off in a very ungainly fashion gaining very little altitude (must have had a generous breakfast of road kill) and staggering out towards Norm who headed for the thankfully empty oncoming lane. The eagle finally got himself under control and started to wheel himself away from the road as Norm got there. What Norm saw with relief was the wings start to open up and move off to the side, his eyes were level with the eagles as he came alongside. Phew. The great view I got was the magnificent sight of the cream, tan and black plumage of the underbelly and underside of the wings and tail as it continued in an arc to climb away. The wings weren't even fully extended as it rose over Normie but had easily extended to 7 feet because it was more than twice the width of Norm sitting on his bike and the width of the handlebars. On reflection I'm also pretty relieved it didn't need to wheel back to gain height before I passed.



Nola south of Renner Springs heading south with a 'YES I'm enjoying this' salute.

Got some good pics south of Renner Springs today. On our way north we approached our first advisory speed sign after 3ways on a right hand corner with a tipping truck sign because the camber was a bit dodgy and as we rounded the corner were greeted by a WOW view of straight road disappearing into the distance and a rugged rocky out crop / butte on our right. Reminded us both of the old cowboy and indian movies we watched as kids which were filmed in the Sierra Nevada desert around the Sedona area which we saw on our 98 trip to the USA. Great memories everywhere!

We've had strong and punishing winds for long stretches throughout the day and as my neck has been screaming its of some consolation that I can also see the trees on the side of the road getting a beating so its not just me. One concern with this situation is the fact that the prospect of the helmet and occie strap to the handlebars innovation is starting to appear as if it may have some merit, even so I still won't be a test pilot.

Heading south towards 3ways today I saw the sign to the Barkly Stock Route and was reminded that on our way north we saw a cattle truck turn off onto it which is an un sealed road and the progress could be seen over the tree tops. It looked awesome and it reminded us both of the huge numbers of trucks and coaches we met on our original trip out to Mt Isa from the coast but especially from Alice Springs south on our way home in our car after leaving the van in Darwin on consignment to be sold. In those days we were guaranteed a better price selling the van there rather than dragging it home. To quote the people we bought it from when we rang them before heading off to Darwin 'It'll be worth around $600 more to you to sell it up there because it costs them a heap to ship them up there and no one will ever get the red dust out of it down here so it. Will be worth that much less if you bring it back'. He was right as it turned out. We shipped home everything we didn't need from Mt Isa before we headed for Darwin. Anyway from Darwin down we carried our gas primus burner and canned food and that was what we ate on the way most of the way. So to the dust. Whenever we saw great clouds of red dust approaching we would either pack up quick and get on the road to beat the road trains or coaches, or if we didn't have time we'd sit and wave if it was a coach or if it was a road train jump into the car before we choked.

We regretted not getting a photo of the rolling plumes of dust on the way up. The things we take for granted!



The devil and his marbles (sorry freudian slip there) Norm on top of some of the Devils Marbles. Kids in front.

We enjoyed revisiting the Devils Marbles which are magnificent. The highway no longer winds through them which is probably just as well but they are only a short distance off it.

For those who don't know Wycliffe Wells is apparently the UFO capital of Australia and who am I to disagree?

That's it for today other than to note there is no phone service so this will be sent when I get some tomorrow.

Whenever we travel around either here or overseas we make it a habit to never try to see everything there is to see. Firstly because that is impossible but also to try means you can risk being saturated with 'lots' of experiences rather than having a chance to' savour' them as you go. We always leave some for the next time should we ever get the opportunity to return. This trip is no different however one experience we planned but which we missed out on was a flight over the wetlands of Kakadu. Having planned to see the majority of the waterfalls at Litchfield National Park which we achieved we figured the wetland flight over Kakadu would give us a taste of the wetlands and their vastness. But, there's always a but. Unless we wanted to charter a plane for 9 which surprisingly hadn't figured in our thinking or budget, it wasn't going to be a happening thing from Darwin. All other flights leave from and return to Kakadu. So, that one is on the next time list for now.

We travelled well today. Left 7.15 to beat the majority of the heat (which we did) and arrived at 2.45 having travelled 600 kms. The butts held up surprisingly well considering it’s been a few days since we have done much riding at all. The bit of anatomy which was the most reluctant were our necks. Apparently they had enjoyed the break from having to hold our heads and helmets on so they don't flip off and bounce down the highway behind us, mind you we did have a pretty stiff head wind most of the day as our fuel usage reflected. Anyway, about 2/3 of the way here they were very owie but we both did some stretching and flexing and they got over it. Norm has many theories about some sort of device to attach to the helmets and handlebars connected by an occie strap or zip tie to alleviate the problem and if that little number makes it from the grey matter to the production stage you can be sure I will NOT be the test pilot.

It was good to be on the road again and viewing the scenery from the opposite direction and opposite lighting. Remarkable how different things can look. We had an interesting experience with a great brahman bull this morning. We saw him from a good distance as he wandered down from the grass verge onto the other side of the road and crossed to the middle and just stood and looked at us and a car behind us approach. We slowed and slowed and slowed and he stayed and stayed and stayed. The only perceptible difference in stature was his head seemingly being raised. Dilemma. Really don't want to assume he will remain statuesque as we ride slowly by, but also don't want to be travelling slow enough to be chased if he decides we've invaded his territory. Thankfully he helped out by deciding he'd just finish crossing the road and Norm drove by and once he heard Norm's bike he started behaving in a decidedly skittish manner with head and tail in the air and making good speed away from the road. Worked for me, he was off on the grass verge and heading for the scrub as I rode by.



The Larrimah servo. Definitely no fuel there!

We checked out the burnt out Larrimah servo I told you about on the way up.A sorry sight but provided some shade to stop for a drink of water and a bit of a break. We decided against revisiting the old Daly Waters Pub, figured the inn on the highway would likely be quieter but of course that remains to be seen or to be strictly correct to be heard or not.

That's it for today.



The kids tucked up in bed in front of our room at Daly Waters.

As we were firing up the bikes to head off on our trip Glenn (our Operations Manager) came to farewell us and stood there shaking his head saying 'I can't believe it, 6 weeks'. I was thinking he was referring to the time we would be away then he continued 'that that's all the luggage you have for 6 weeks!'. I have to confess I was a bit naughty and enjoyed telling him that the actual luggage was held in the 2 pannier bags each side of the bikes but the large bags sitting on the pillion seat were other bits. This has been a familiar theme, a lot of people have been intrigued by the amount of luggage we do / don't carry so I thought while we are covering some of the same territory I'd let you know what we actually carry.

Norm's

Essentials bag (the big one in the middle) the 2 x pannier bags each side are the luggage bags. The two together have a 42 litre / kg capacity.

Norm's Essential bits bag contents:
2 x bike covers (we call them our bike ports) which keeps the rain, condensation, dust, mine outfall, birds and their waste material off them.
Also acts as a deterrent to would be thieves / vandals even as far as a random keying.
1 x tow rope.
2 x occie straps.
1 x toilet paper (and have we been glad to have that with some of the loos we've visited!).
Assorted snacks, dried fruit and snack bars.
1 x 5litre jerry can (only filled for the Camooweal to Barkly Homestead leg and there is another section south of Alice Springs where we may need it).
1 x anti fog compound (for inside of face shield - more of an issue on the coast than the interior).
1 x biro (interesting this since he lost my biro!).
1 x syphon hose if we need to transfer fuel from one tank to another or from someone else's.
2 x sets of waterproof jackets for extra waterproofing / warmth. Also Norm's waterproof pants, mine are in the little glove box on my bike.
1 x waterproofed back rug we stretch out on for an occasional nap.
1 x can of tyre pressure puncture repair.
Assorted maps.
Spare bike key.
Camera and charge leads.
1 x large water bottle.
Tropical additions:
1 x Aerogard.
1 x fly spray.
He also carries our two small bottles of water in the side pockets for easy access and puts his padded and waterproof jacket liners in the top as he sheds them.
In his little bike glove compartment on his bike he carries:
1 x can Plexus (polish).
1 x roll electrical tape.
Assorted zip ties.
1 x pair side cutters.
1 x swiss army pocket knife.
The original Yamaha tool kit.
Assorted extra allen keys.
Assorted polishing rags.
And there you have it!

Basically done very little and been spoilt by our hosts.

We found a very different Darwin to the one we saw in early 1972 pre Cyclone Tracey and pre the city it has become since. The Darwin we remember was a large rambling country town around the size of Traralgon and Morwell joined together. The population when Tracey struck in 74 was only 48,000. In 72 we stayed at the Council Caravan Park on the foreshore and the hospital was a smallish thing in the city somewhere now it's a huge building in sight of the house here in Lyons (Casaurina area). There were no dual traffic roads into the city and the outer edge of the city started after the Air force Base. Again one of the biggest changes in Darwin as is the same elsewhere we visited on our original trip is the nationalising of the retail world.

Green's garage or the Bennett family grocery store have been replaced by nationally recognised brands, stores ,and expected service levels. A huge shopping centre we visit in any city here could be a mirror image of anywhere else. Quite a tribute to the difference a well-functioning Transport and Logistics Supply Chain (largely road) can make. In that vein, my favourite TV add is the Woolworth's / Safeway adds telling us what fresh fruit and veggies are available nationally which is a testament to the responsiveness and efficiency of road transport in this country.

Saturday we attended our first ever Motocross Meet (Barry competing) which took Norm back to his experiences in his early days of motorbike ownership at 17 / 18 years of age tearing around the bush and abandoned quarries and the like. The road is much safer I've decided! No injuries so it was a good meet.



Barry in full flight over the smaller of the two large jumps on a practice round. He looked spectacular over the bigger one (100 foot long) and got as much height and distance as anyone but it was too distant to do it justice on the picture side of things.

Sunday saw us head to Mindl Market and then make our selections from the myriad of food vendors and head to the sand to sit and watch the sun drop into the ocean. The reverse to what we are used to if in fact we are used to any of it. Monday saw us head to the city and check out the Museum which was interesting particularly the Cyclone Tracey exhibit which we specifically went to see. We followed that up with a yummy lunch at the museum cafe overlooking the beach between pandanas palms (don't know how to spell that- neither does the spell check). Very picturesque. Then we headed for the Military Museum at East Point which covered well the bombing of Darwin which staggeringly went on from February 1942 to November 1943! Incredible ferocity on the part of the Japanese and considering Darwin was a town of 4 X 5 streets at the time the strategic nature of the attacks was big. As time progressed the bombing extended further south to Adelaide River where the fight to hang on really was based and many air strips were hastily constructed along the Stuart Highway as aircraft progressively became available to send north. The highway works from Darwin to Alice Springs started after a cyclone before the war, was ramped up and once finished meant men and supplies were much more accessible. Must have made for interesting road construction being bombed while you tried to build the road! Many of the airstrips are still visible beside the road and many more off the road are well sign posted. We ended the day with a family dinner at the wharves with about half of Darwin. This is the wharf used in the filming of the movie 'Australia' which all the cattle were herded down (supposedly) to the waiting ship. Very pretty spot near the new convention centre.



Mindl beach approaching sunset.

Today we got the bikes serviced and yes Normie's fuel cap came in. This afternoon we were to head into the city to have a coffee with a former colleague of mine from TDT Vic who has been working her way around Australia but best laid plans and all that, just got a call to say her flight has been bumped and she now won't be leaving Cairns until 6.30 tonight so will miss her. That seems to be how it goes for remote Australia, any delays or flights taken out of the system or consolidated all impact on the area at the end of the chain, probably be hard as a resident not to be both resigned and annoyed about that.

Tonight I suspect will be a quiet night then off early in the morning to beat the heat.
Talk to you tomorrow with anything new and the completed news of Norm's Essentials bag and the following day another update and news of my Emergency bag. After that we will be in new territory for this trip.



A former Territorian (Sweetheart) you would want to give a wide berth. Now stuffed (thankfully) and in the museum. A good 18 to 20 feet long.

Yesterdays PS:
Forgot to say I had a bit of a glitch with the communications gear yesterday as in tried to fry my wiring on my exhaust as we headed off from the Daly Waters air strip so threw it into the bag and Norm repaired it last night. At first this morning I could hear him but he couldn't hear me which he understandably thought was pretty good! Anyway plugged it in again and working both ways again as well as it does. Still need to find a motorbike cop to enquire what brand they use so we can communicate without the aggravation of excessive noise and interference. Also yesterday saw the last of the fresh road kill. A couple of little wallabies and some sort of little rat like looking thing.

Today:
Started off humid and cool (rather than hot and humid as it had been all night). We were amazed as we had been yesterday at the amount of burnt land we travelled through. Obviously from human interference. I know some areas in Queensland where farmers burn off last season’s grasses as it is too tough for the cattle to eat and the burning promotes new growth which is easier for cattle to eat. Don't know if that is what goes on here but some of the burnt land wouldn't be too agreeable for cattle I wouldn't think. The first things to recover seem to be the palms. Interesting. The first things to come back after the Gippsland fires were the ferns. Both ancient species. (Barry and Annette have told us since our arrival that the burning off is to reduce fuel to prevent massive out of control fires).

Anyway, the ride headed off into more windy road and rugged rocky out crops and ridges. We took the turn left off the highway and headed for Batchelor and ultimately the Litchfield National Park. Batchelor was what is left of the town which used to service the Rum Jungle Uranium mine which shut down around 1970 / 71. On our way home in 72 the town was fenced and no admission was allowed. The open cut mine has now filled with water from the monsoons and is used for canoeing for school camps and other water sports. The prospect of swimming in something which is 300metres deep sounds pretty scary to me. Anyway what is left of Batchelor looks quite pretty. The trees look beautiful and sporting grounds look good but I'd say the town has it challenges. The sign on a motel heading towards Litchfield which said 'Batchelor Resort' seemed a pretty big statement we thought after getting some lunch there.

The ride out to Litchfield was a lovely gentle winding ride. Very nice after all the long straight stretches though there are nowhere near as many as previously now that the roads follow routes above floods and have both cuttings and fills and high level water crossings. The waterfalls in Litchfield were beautiful. What a contrast to see such big bodies of water in such rugged dry country. We also checked the Magnetic Termite mounds which were intriguing. Looked like a lot of tombstones. Look up magnetic termites on google to see how greatly they and their mounds differ from the usual ones.



Wangii Falls. There is a beautiful area at the base of the falls where swimming is usually allowed complete with stainless steel stair rails into the water however it is currently closed due to strong currents and crocodile sightings. Bugger!



Some of the Litchfield Magnetic Termite mounds

By the time we got back on the Stuart Highway the temperature was climbing rapidly and all possible layers had been removed. The second set of traffic lights saw me half un zipping my jacket to get some more air movement. It was a relief to get to the Yamaha dealer with ice cold air-conditioning so we could check on the progress of Norms fuel cap. Supposedly on track for Monday. We'll see. Asked if any Yamaha's come with a 6th overdrive gear (to reduce engine revs). No, but the 1300 is much slower revving. I'd need to be lifting serious weights I think to lift one of them up to start riding! Sales staff then asked 'Did you know we have a Harley ride day tomorrow and they have an overdrive would you like to book?' NO!

It was nice to get to Barry and Annette's and have a glass of cold water. Passed the Darwin hospital where Jenny worked on their working holiday (not even there on our original trip). REALLY looking forward to getting the jackets washed and especially the draggin jeans. They would just about come if we whistled them up at the moment after the last couple of hot days.

I have serious admiration for the people who live and work here in this sort of heat and humidity especially bearing in mind that it's not all that humid at the moment! Like anything I guess if I HAD to do it I would but am very happy I don't have to. This is the country kid who spent hot summer Sunday's sitting on the church porch steps because sitting in church with people tightly around me I was forever passing out so to be somewhere where I feel like I'm having a permanent hot flush is not a gig I'm likely to be volunteering for. We will be having a few days break here now so will talk to you when we get on the road again.



Florence Falls.

Yesterday’s PS:
Yesterday I sacrificed a perfectly good handkerchief for the cause which considering the collection of grease and oil stains on all of Norm's for obvious reasons I should have used one of his. We had filled the 5 litre jerry can at Camooweal as there was no fuel till Barkly Homestead and we didn't want to get stuck in case of head winds and any other unforeseen eventuality. We got in to Barkly Homestead on reserve so hadn't needed the can. Since fuel is available between 100 and 200 km or so we wanted to empty it. Norm was having trouble getting the spout out of the tin and grabbed a handy stick to hoist it up and you guessed it, it broke off and dropped in the can. Couldn't drop on the outside of course. So the handkerchief was the filter to make sure the stick didn't transfer from the can to the fuel tank. It didn't. It stayed in the can! Anyway the sacrifices have evened up today as you will see. We got a lot of strong and gusty wind yesterday both head and cross winds. My forehead was really sore by the time we got in from the force of the wind pressing it on to my forehead.

Today:
The day started off comfortably cool and cloudy and pleasant for riding with a few layers on. That soon changed and we were rid of all the layers we could be by the time we made it in and we were uncomfortably hot. Probably the most uncomfortable was when we were stopped at some road works traffic lights north of Katherine. I was at the point of just pulling over onto the verge and stripping off the helmet gloves and jacket and lying down when they finally changed. Boy did the airflow over the sweaty skin feel good when we got going.

Our first diversion was to the Daly Waters airfield which was used heavily in WW II. It has the oldest hangar in the NT built in 1930 and heritage listed and was tidied up in1992 by a group of Duke of Edinburgh volunteers. Thankfully the display in the hangar traced the whole history, not just the WW II side of things. The airfield was the first international airfield in Australia being the staging point for the Qantas Empire Airlines flights to Singapore. The Daly Waters hotel was built on the original post office and store to cater for passengers if held over and I'd say nothing much has changed since then. We actually went on our first (probably only) ride along an airfield runway here which was pretty awesome having seen some of the pictures of the war planes on the tarmac.



Daly River airfield hangar with (you guessed it) a couple of good looking bikes.

We think the old highway went through Daly Waters because we saw the Stuart tree on our Working Holiday trip and that's off the current highway. A lot of the highway has changed both in route and surface. The surface has been a huge improvement but the route is not as interesting though there are better signs to tourist attractions now. The only signs there used to be were the various cairns and monuments to the explorers and the Overland Telegraph but there are lots of signs and commentary provided now for WW II sites and others which is good.

Soon after the airfield I was noting the grass gradually changing from the fine plain grass and the lack of undergrowth and the light to moderate tree cover (gippsland standard) probably moderate to heavy (NT standard). Anyway there we were heading north when I saw something bounce along the road behind Norm's bike towards me then onto the side of the road. I barely had time to think that Norm did well to miss it when his LH indicator and stop lights came on and we were both pulling over and stopping quickly as I thought 'bugger clearly something off his bike'.

Norm's recollection was feeling something touch his leg and looking down wondering what it was and as he looked up saw the gaping hole where his fuel cap should have been! A couple of times I'd put it on after fuelling up it locked on but felt 'wrong' and I told Norm who pushed it down harder and it locked further. I'm grateful it wasn't me who had put it on this time. Anyway despite an exhaustive search and the loss of about an hour we didn't find it. The sacrifice comes in here. Norm sacrificed one of his soft polish cloths to wrap around a small stone to plug the gap then put it in a plastic bag so it wouldn't act as a wick. It is working well with an occasional bag replacement to cater for the friction of rough roads and a new one is ordered at Yamaha in Darwin which is supposed to be in by Tuesday. The bike is still running well so clearly not an airtight fit. Anyone we've asked along the way for generic caps looks at us. Blankly!

Our next diversion was a bite to eat at Larrimah. The first choice was the hotel (not the historic one off the highway) and it was an experience. It was a ramshackle sort of house with a sign which said it was a pub. There was a sign out front about all sorts of food apart from the cold beer so I walked in and straight in front of me was a bar with a sign on the front proudly claiming it is the 'Highest bar in NT' and has the longitude and latitude displayed which apparently proves it and who am I to disagree. The barman was a scary looking individual, in fact he reminded me of the toad in the Beatrix Potter stories. We said it was a shame about the servo being burnt to which he replied 'a'course it was no accident but at least they didn't get away with it' to which we replied that was a good thing. 'Gold mine that was run the right way, a'course they didn't. The bank owns it now but they'll never get their $400,000 back'. No doubt about it the locals tell you how it is and by the way the homemade pie was delicious.

The rest of the trip has been blessedly uneventful! The trees have gotten less dense and the grasses longer and tougher with an increasing number of palms as well as we travelled north of Katherine. A nice big bridge heading over the river out of Katherine now instead of road traffic sharing the railway bridge as it did in 72. We took a bit of a detour before coming into Adelaide River over some of the old highway and other roads. It was a slightly more interesting ride but we were hot and a bit over it by then.



A view of the War Cemetery at Adelaide River.

We booked into the Inn here then went to the war cemetery. We visited this on our way home from Darwin in 72 and the memorials were white wooden crosses then but have now been replaced with brass plaques. Beautifully maintained as then but I prefer the upstanding crosses itg somehow speaks of the fact that those buried there ‘stood’ for their country and countrymen In 72 we got a photo of Danny with a tiny wallaby feeding on the lawn. This time it was pheasants who were fascinated with our bikes, we assume especially the reflections of themselves in the chrome. We then went over the low level crossing which was the only crossing in 72. Norm spotted a sign which said crocodiles have been seen recently in these waters. No walking near the river in the dark!
Talk tomorrow.



Adelaide River crossing. The road bridge with Rail Bridge in background and the original low level crossing as well. It was on this crossing where the crocodile warning sign was displayed.

Yesterdays PS:
Saw some helicopter mustering from a distance as we left Mt Isa and considering the trees around those people are crazy given the speed and height they fly. We are thoroughly sedate riding motorbikes We got hit by our 1st fair dinkum willy willy yesterday. Hit with at least as much force as meeting a road train which is substantial on a bikes let me tell you. The road wasn't fenced for the majority of the day (none of it today) Stayed at Barkly Homestead which we've dubbed rip off central, a view held by every incredulous customer. Our cabin only cost $80 which was the only reasonable charge. Eg small bottle of soft drink $4.20, packet of 2 panadol capsules $3.50 and that was the cheap end of town. Cafe meals were up market restaurant prices and barely cafe quality. But, we left today so they can eat our dust.

Today we started off about 8.00am to beat a bit of the heat so were all layered up in the clothes department which we have progressively shed on our journey.

The terrain has remained much the same as the last third of yesterday with just the combinations and density changing. As the afternoon wore on heading north we have travelled through more gently undulating country with greater density of trees and fewer acacia though plenty of scrub. While the grass looks dense once we walked into it or saw where it had been burnt out it was easier to see that the grass is dense where there is a reasonable amount of soil on the surface whereas a lot of areas are very rocky and while it still gives the appearance of being well grass covered are pretty sparse between the rocks and termite mounds. Nowhere near the road-kill today or eagles as a result. No doubt a reflection of the above as well as a combination of a large number of areas which have been burnt out over the last few years and in varying states of regeneration. One example of road kill we both saw and had the same reaction to was what looked like a large brahman bull on the side of the road. As we went past we realised it was a kangaroo! Easily the BIGEST we have ever seen! Man what drumsticks he had poor old fella.

An experience I had I hope not to repeat today was to have to sneeze as I met a road train. No way could I keep the eyes open but thankfully held the bike where it needed to be and was on track when I opened them. Bit unsettling.

We are staying the night at Daly Waters Pub which is a quirky corner of the NT for a whole host of reasons. The entertainment in the beer garden (immediately outside our room window) is 'Sax and the Single Girl' and can she ever play the saxophone to a very appreciative and somewhat lubricated crowd and its only 5.10pm. Might be difficult to get our customary 11 hours sleep in tonight. Dinner tonight is a Barra'N'Beef on the BBQ meal. When we booked we were told if we can still hear our name it will be called around 6.30 and if we are still sober enough to hear it we can collect our plate then load it up with salads. Interesting.

A quirky sign (one of many) which appealed to my sick sense of humour was 'Pets welcome dogs and husbands must be kept on a leash at all times'. For some reason Normie failed to see the funny side.

Talking of Normie, you will all be pleased his repair of my mudguard has held up well. No sign of any further cracking. So, not just a pretty face!
Talk to you tomorrow.



Not only do I have the tender butt to prove I've been here on my little bike but I have the picture to prove it as well. This was just around the corner from our first real coffee in about 4 days. Its a wonder I could stop the camera shaking.



3 ways Road house where we checked out this 1923 Rolls Royce Silver Ghost which we had passed earlier. Has literally travelled around dozens of countries. Great to see it out and about.



Daly Waters Pub. $60 for the night. VERY quirky. Norm had left me to the writing in the beer garden until a second ago. I didn't want to go for a refill of a cool beverage or I would lose my table under the fan and true to his nature he has just done the gallant thing and arrived to take care of things so as you can see all is right with the world. Norm just arrived with the beers. He ordered them and the barmaid said 'what do you want heads or tails?' He said 'tails' she tossed the coin and said 'you win' when he asked what that meant she told him he got the beers for free. When he said it would be his luck he'd have to pay for two lots next time she assured him he was safe as it finished in 5 minutes. Told you it was a quirky place!